richard son



`Tol all 'wh-0m t concern .i

UNITED sAML. RICHARDSON, or BALDWIN, MAINE.

FITTING LAnIEslDREsss. l

, a a specification @Letters PateneNo; 3,522, `dared. April 4, 1844.@

, Be it known that` I," SAMUEL RIQHARD- l soN, of the -town"`f j`Baldwin,"county `of Cumberland, State` "Maine, a have,"` invented v a new uand useful fApparatus for Fitting l Iladies Dresses, which I VCallfh TFM measure-Rule,w7 andrfthjat", the @following isl a full and accurate` descriptionjofthexsamef;

"Thiel apparatus consists `of a measure andl corresponding diagram."` Themeasure isl made. of biled linen tapetor other fabric) `forty 'veirinchesfinLlength and romjhalfi` "an inch to an inch lin width; and is adaptedw `to three separate?"admeasurements. y The firstl, Idivision of Yit commences at thirteen and half inches from` the end,is` graduated into,4

inches, marked with the lettersV offthe alphabetin order and "used tofmeasure the l g'irthi "of the smaller "part-of the waist. The'sefc-l ond division, `co1,ninencing fourteen and halfjij inches from the end, is graduated intothirds of H,an "inch, marked "with the natural .num-l bersin ord-er from one to eighty-one, in-l elusive, and adaptedto measuring from thei bottom of the waistin the middle of the: back over the outer tip of the shoulder down to the bottom of a belt-waist in the middle in front. The third division, commencing at twenty-one. inches from the end, is graduated into inches and marked with the natural numbers lin order from` zero to twenty-four; being suited to measuring the distance around thebreast close under the arms, so as to `secure the largest possible girth without varying the measure from a horizontal position. The dil'erence between the second `and third of these divisions, when applied, gives an important element in theproportion of thedress, which is not attainable by direct measurement. This is a very essential property of the measure, or (as I call it) of the `triple measure.`

To use this triple measure, apply the divisions in the order of the figured directions upon one end of the same. Forexample, when the lirst division is applied `to the waist, suppose the girth extends to the letter M. On applying the second `division over the shoulder as directed above, sup` pose` the number indicated is 48, and on applyingthe third division about the breast, suppose it gives the No. l2. Instead of using the second measure directly, use is `made of the difference between the second and third, which in this example is 3G.

The diagram, which is upon a cardof l paste-boardid about 21 inches Aby `17," S di "signed to'aidin cutting-patterns-from paper. `It presents first, ina broad line,fthe "torni of :one halfrof Aa: :back ofithe smallest* size ,the boundary of `thisback are six angles for corners; from each of which lines are-'extendedgiin suoli direction as to "preserve'the proportion of all largersizes, necessaryto 4be ,needy-having "their, corners regularly arranged Tin ,these lines." These points Vor corners,being'suiiicient to tix the sizei and prolportin oi' a `back for any1particular` mea- ,sure`, "zare allnumbered",` and punctured through the ,card for transferring with 4pencil @to the paper beneath Rules on the lface` oI-ith'e diagram direct fromwhioh` di 'visionof the Itriple measure:each point is to bei` determined.` 1 Rule first applies -tof two lines pertaining to the *,back, as well asggone pertaining tothe front. VIt reads differ- 1 ence between -2 and measure?,` Thusithe diagrambeing placed upon paper "withfthe longest straight edgetoward they-operator and coinciding with astraight edgeof the paper, mark, in the two lines under rule firstl pertaining to the back, the points numbered with the di'erence of the second and third measure, which, in the example introduced in the description of the measure above, is 36. It a tight fit is desired mark -35 in each line otherwise 37. Rule second applies to the other four angles of the back.

gram in the line marked Use, to be taken Also the same y in marking for the back. number in the line `marked the and in the two lines near the center of the card between which is the word Measure. The word Third in this rule being placed at one end of the curves representing arm sizes, or those parts of arm holes belonging to fronts. The six corners ofthe back are now secured and the straight edge is right. Place the edge of the card marked Back neck to the two points of the back next the neck, and mark the curve by it. In the same manner, by the curved .edge marked Back strike that part next the arm, and that from the arm to the bottom of the waist. The

bottom of the waist is cut straight between rounded to match with the corresponding part of the front after that is cut. The

point gives the length of a waist without a bodice, or that part which projects downward in front. v

Under the second rule the word Third 7 directs to the arm sizes, which are to be marked at each end of the curve in points numbered with the figures obtained at the thirdmeasurement; also mark each punc` ture through which this curve passes. At rule -third marked First measure, transfer the point at the letter obtained at the .first measurement. l v

Rule fourth is Sweep with bottom. of waist as center,-that is, place the pencil in the puncture before marked at the left of the arm size and with a linger on the point` at the bottom of the waist swing the upper` lpart of the card to the left, striking a sweep to the edge of' the pattern.

. Fifth is Apply back and mark neck that is, place the back already cut upon the sweep of the front last struck, and markby it the width of' the top of the shoulder,`

which gives the po-int to which the neck should be marked.

Sixth, By back-that is, the curve, on the back already cut., from the arm to the bottom of the waist, is applied to that part of the front on which the rule is written and a curve given to match it.

Seventh, Biases -these are slips or gores, allowed to be cut out or taken in, in consequence of the dierence, in size, of the breast and lower part of the waist. Two of these biases are represented in the front on the diagram, by lines converging to a point aboutv as high as the arm-ho-le. In these biases kis a center-mark. In striking, this center markshould first be struck by the eye, and, asV the width is all that is essential, on the hither margin of the diagram is a series of these spanned by braces. Each one is numbered .with two numbers and answers for twosizes. This numbering corresponds tothe third measurement. The proper curve for striking the biases and also the bodice is marked on the opposite margin by the words Biases and Bodice.

Vshat I claim is,

The mode herein described of fitting ladies dresses by the combined use of the triple measure and diagram, both graduated in the manner described.

S. W. SWEASEY, Trios. S. THOMPSON. 

